Abhayagiri Monastery: A Walk through the Past

Abhayagiri  Monastery

The ancient Abhayagiri Buddhist Monastery (vihara) is located within the World Heritage Site of Anuradhapura. the monastery lands extends over an area of 240 hectares, its northern and  western boundaries being Perimiyanukulama & Bulankuluma irrigation lakes, commonly referred to as tanks.


(You can read about Anuradhapura's  History,  Heritage area,  Jaya Shri Bodhi tree and Jethwana Monastery from my blog link)

Anuradhapura the Sacred City


History & Evolution

The recorded history of the Abhayagiri Monastery goes back to the years 89 -77 BC. however, of about 11 ancient cave shelters with drip - ledges shows that the monks of a  contemplative order resided here long before the recorded period. In one of these ancient cave shelters, Brahmni script of the 2nd - 1st centuries BC can be seen.

A Bodhi tree shrine near the Stupa

The Abhayagiri Monastery was established in the 1st century B.C by King Valagamba. The name Abhayagiri is believed to be compound of 'ABHAYA'  and 'GIRI'. The principal monument here is the great Abhayagiri  stupa, the dome shaped  structure containing sacred relics that towers above the monastery. The stupa originally constructed by King Valagamba, was later enlarged  by King Gajaba (A.D 114 - 136). King Parakramabahu the Great  (A.D  1153 - 1186), who ruled from Polonnaruva, which succeeded Anuradhapura as the capital, restored the ruined stupa and it is this restored stupa that we see today.

Originally, the construction of buildings within the precincts of the Abhayagiri monastery was confined to its western side. Nevertheless, by the end of the Anuradhapura period, a scared area or a sanctuary for the public have developed around the stupa. Withing the sanctuary around the stupa, varied constructions such as impressive Ratnaprasada chapter house, Image house, Bodhi tree shrines, Anointing hall and Assembly hall sprang up. Outside this sanctuary, monastic residential complex had also been established in the four main directions. Chola invasion of the Anuradhapura kingdom in AD 1017 caused great devastation and the Sinhala Buddhist community fled from the region, abandoning to the jungle. Later the kings who ruled from Polonnaruva, which succeeded Anuradhapura as the capital, restored the ruined stupa and other buildings of the monastery before its final abandonment after the collapse of the dry zone civilization in the 13th century AD. However,  from the mid 13th century AD, the city with all these monasteries and edifices succumbed to ravages caused by foreign invasions, political turmoil and natural factors. Due to modern antiquarian interest during the mid 19th century and establishment of the Archaeological Department  in 1890, archeological activities were initiated to recover the monuments and the site. Since 1980, the Central Culture Fund is engaged in the conservation and management of the stupa.

Important areas to visit around Abhayagiri Monastery

Functions & International Relations

The Abhayagiri Monastery during its heyday was also a great centre of learning and assumed the stature of an university. There were many faculties  and each faculty had several monastic residential  cum study complexes.

The renowned, Chinese monk Fa-hien resided in the Abhayagiri monastery for two years in the 5th century AD as a visiting scholar. He mentions in his diary entries that at the time, a community of around  5000 monks was resident there. In the refectory of the monastery a massive stone trough, with a capacity to hold about 5000 alms-bowls of rice, is still been seen today. Within the refectory, an ancient sundial also has been discovered. An intriguing indication that the donors of alms kept the prepared food ready in the before noon by sounding the gong. Pottery and coins found in this site reveal that there were also connections with India, Greece and Rome in ancient times.

A stone trough which had a capacity for
5000 rice bowls in the Refectory

Grinding stones in the Refectory

Monastic Plan

In the layout of the monastery, the focal point is the great Abhayagiri Stupa. The monastic residential complexes are arranged in a ring round the stupa and enclosed by great stone built boundary walls for the privacy of the monks. A well planned road system complete with gate houses was constructed for each monastic residential complex. Separating this residential complexes from the stupa is an open space (sacred area) for public use during religious festivals and to conduct processions.  to the south west there was a nunnery for Buddhist nuns which was surrounded by a parapet wall. this wall had gateways and the area thus protected appears to have enjoyed a certain degree of autonomy, as it had all the elements of a self contained monastery. These compromised a stupa, a chapter house, a Bodhi tree shrine and an image house. Renovations carried out in recent times had however, completely changed the original shape of its stupa.

 

Abhayagiri Stupa

A Bodhi Tree Shrine

Architecture

According to the research carried out so far, this gigantic Abhayagiri stupa has originally risen to a height of about  100 meters.  Thus it had become the fifth highest monument in the ancient world. Only the three Great Pyramids of egypt and the Jetavana Stupa at Anuradhapura were higher than the Abhayagiri Stupa. Today the ruined stupa up to its broken spire stands 75 meters in height, with a circumference of 99.2 meters at its base.

Abhayagiri Stupa approach
Abhayagiri Stupa Layout

The other monuments of architectural significance within the monastery are Bodhi tree shrines, Ratnaprasadha Chapter house (a storied mansion), Assembly hall, Refectory, the Lankarama Stupa and Jantaghara (Hot water bath).

Abhayagiri Monastery Layout

Abhayagiri Stupa - Spire & Harmika

Art & Sculpture

The gate houses to the Abhayagiri Monastery dazzle the beholder with examples of the skills of ancient Sinhala artists and sculptors. A visitor about to enter the building is greeted by a display of fine arts such as intricately carved moonstone (semi circular entrance stone), sculpted guard stone, balustrade, dwarf figures (varmana rupa) to mention a few. there are two different styles apparent in the moonstones of the monastery. the more complete moonstone is replete with intricate petal design and figures carved on it. The lotus petal design and the figures of elephants, horses, oxen and lions are symbolic of Buddhist values and doctrines.  

Moonstone

Dwarves bearing the stairs

Moonstone

The guard stones seen in the monastery also show a development from a simple undecorated stone to a more advanced one, complete with auspicious symbols of prosperity. The comparatively simple balustrade on either side of the flight of stone steps had later developed into intricate designs. The Samadhi Buddha image, regarded as the most serene and edifying Buddha image in Sri Lanka is found in the Bodhi tree shrine No.2 and dates from the 3rd / 4th century AD. The image were also made of terracotta with a thin coat of plaster, on which paint was applied to add color. The eyes of the image were embellished with precious stones.

Balustrade representing a Makara (dragon head)

Guard stone in-front of Mahasena Palace ruins



Samadhi statue

Water - resources management & technology

The methodologies applied for the conservation and management of water resources in the monastery display great technological skill, sophistication and creativity. The ponds were also a special feature of the monastic residential complexes with a total of 65 ponds discovered so far. The ponds had filtering sieves to purify the water collected in them.  Some of the ponds had water conveyed to them from irrigation lakes (tanks) outside, by means of underground conduits. One such pond, Eth - Pokuna (Elephant pond), is 5 times as large as the Olympic swimming pool. 

Elephant pond


A small house which had running water & lavatory

Sieves connecting underground conduits

The Twin ponds had a filtration device to purify the water that enters the ponds and opening at the base to drain away waste water. An intricate system of lavatories and urinals has been specially devised to prevent human waste from leaning into the fresh water ponds.



Twin pond

Filtration device

A water seive

Abhayagiri  - The Educational Institution

Abhayagiri monastery was a great centre of learning. Almost all the buildings of the residential complexes had a wide plinth, which served as seats of study purposes. There appears to have been workshops where practical training in special crafts such as the sculpture of Buddha images, was conducted.  Ample evidence has been brought to light that reveal existence of a high level of technical and planning skills in building construction.

Construction drawings of buildings inscribed on stone slabs have also been found in many places. Abhayagiri Vihara was unique among other Buddhist monasteries in Anuradhapura for its espouser to foreign influences on ideology and doctrine. Its tolerance in such influences is borne by the fact that the monk named Sanghamitra with Mahayana ideologies from India tutored the prices from royal court while residing at Abhayagiri monastery.

Construction drawings

A workshop ruin

Museum Information

On entering the monastic site, one sees the Abhayagiri Site Museum, exhibiting the archaeological objects discovered in excavations. An audio-visual room is provided in this museum for presentations, to give an introduction free of charge, to the visitors to the heritage site. An information desk, counter for entry tickets and publication center are housed in this museum.

The museum is open daily from 8AM to 5PM.

Visiting information around the Abhayagiri Monastery

It is recommended that the best time to view the monuments and explore around the area is during the day time, when visibility is at its best. Some monuments such as Samadhi statue are open to visitors till 10PM.

In some monuments such as Abhayagiri stupa, Samadhi statue, Bodhi tree shrine you have to visit barefoot as it's a sacred place of worship. To avoid getting blistered due to heat from the sun on the stone floors its recommended to wear your socks while visiting them.

It should be noted that taking of photographs and selfies with the back facing the Buddha images or touching them in a way that shows disrespect to the religious and cultural values of the country, are actions that are prohibited.

Visitors are not allowed to bring polythene or plastic containers / packets to the site.

                                                       

This blog on Abhayagri has been written primarily from the audio which I recorded while my guide was giving descriptions. Also from museum information, tourist brochure and archeology slab information in the monument sites.

Dear Reader's, tell me about your views in the comments section. 

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Kodopal Eco Nest: The Green Char

Habalikhati: A Pristine Virgin Island

Whale Watching Tour: A Cruise with the Giants - Mirissa

Koraput: The Rolling Hills of Eastern Ghats