Nalanda Gedige: The Forgotten Temple
Sri Lanka is a fascinating country with loads of history & archaeological sites. Apart from the main touristy sights, there are many other interesting historical places which remain hidden and very worth exploring.
Map reading in Google helps a lot in identifying such places of lesser importance... well not 'lesser' in my eyes, as it's a part of the history of that country which helped in shaping it some way or the other.
I will be discussing Nalanda Gedige temple. It is peculiar because of its scant history and hybrid style of architecture, which includes Hindu elements and Tantric Buddhist carvings. This type of combination is commonly not seen in Sri Lanka.
Gedige means an image house which exhibits a composite style of architecture unique in Sri Lanka.
Location:
Nalanda Gedige is situated one km to the east of the A9 route 20km north of Aluvihare and 30km South of Dambulla in the district of Matale. It is one of a number of remarkable archaeological sites in Sri Lanka that receive few tourists through no limitations of their own. The reasons for this anomaly are various. Sometimes it has to do with geography and ease of access, although this is not the case with Nalanda. Often, however, it is a case of the beaten tourist track prevailing over good sense.
Being a very scenic place in the middle of nowhere, away from all the touristy crowd, you can soak into the atmosphere in peace.
🧭 Google Map Coordinates: MJ9W+V8 Naula, Sri Lanka.
History:
Named after the great Buddhist University at Nalanda in India, it has been said that Nalanda Gedige is “one of those fortunate places that have no history.” The surprising lack of knowledge regarding this shrine, and why it was named 'Nalanda' thwarts those who wish to delve into its past.
The structure was created between the 8th and 10th century AD. This was a rather unsettling era in Sri Lanka, with South Indian kings establishing themselves in the wake of the declining Sinhalese monarchy. Some historians believe that Nalanda Gedige was a bold attempt at a fusion of Tamil and Sinhalese cultures; while others say the structure started out as a Hindu temple constructed in the Pallava style, which was later used by Buddhists. Either way, at an unknown point in time, Nalanda Gedige was abandoned and forgotten; its mystery unsolved. The forest took over the region, swallowing the sanctum into its deep, dark embrace.
The history of Nalanda Gedige as an archaeological site began in 1893, when, according to then Archaeological Commissioner, H. C. P. Bell, “land was acquired around this little-known and solitary shrine of granite construction, popularly styled gedige. It is situated on raised ground in paddy fields, picturesquely surrounded by low hills and wooded hamlets. In 1911 a small gang was detached from the labour force at Sigiriya to thoroughly root out all the jungle growth upon and around the ruin besides cutting still further back the earth silt hiding the bold stylobate upon which the fane stands. Very special importance attaches to this unique temple, as it is the sole example yet discovered in Ceylon of composite styles of architecture judiciously blended to form a delightfully homogenous edifice.”
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| The temple in 1890 - image courtesy: Archaeoart |
Bell also had plans to dismantle and relocate the entire structure to a more viable location. He felt that the temple was in a precarious location; an elevated area that might become unstable at any moment, causing Nalanda Gedige irretrievable damage. However, his plans did not achieve fruition until many years later, when he had long since moved on from the position of Archaeological Commissioner.
Architecture:
Nalanda Gedige was designed in the standard framework of a Hindu temple; with a mandapams or halls used for events, an entrance passage which was originally roofed, a main central shrine, and an ambulatory round this holy centre.
The image is quite contradictory though as there has been no sign of Hindu Gods found within the temple, and there were unusual elements not found in a standard South Indian style Hindu temple. For example, the richly decorated facade sections are believed to be of South Indian design from the era of the Cholas and Pandyas; but the appearance of the god of wealth, Kubera, seated on a lotus plinth in a semi-circular niche on the southern section, is a feature only to be found in Sri Lanka.
There are also eroded Tantric Buddhist carvings of an erotic tone, much like the famous ones at Khajuraho in India. The ground-plan is Buddhist, the vestibule pure Hindu and so is the little windowless shrine: the plain moonstone and crocodile balustrade and architecture of the doorway are Sinhalese, and the surface Tamilian; even the sculptures are fairly shared.
Head of a lion
The Temple Now:
In the 1980s, the waters of the newly created Bowatenne Tank threatened to flood the shrine. Therefore, researchers took the opportunity to dismantle the ruin and rebuild it on the retaining wall of the tank, high above the waters. It was reconstructed beside the tank, as it then existed, on a structure 27ft in height using the same granite stones and can now be approached by a flower-edged causeway with a magnificent backdrop of tree-clad hills. This was the most outstanding archaeological work carried out in Sri Lanka.
The Museum:
There's a small museum near the vehicle parking area. It exhibits some pillars, foundation stones and temple information.
Other Information:
➖ There are no entrance fees, camera charges to the temple site or the museum.
➖ As the area remains much isolated and devoid of tourists, there are no guides to show you around.
➖ From the main highway, it's a 2 km detour through a very narrow dirt road.
➖ You won't find any amenities like food shops, toilets.
➖ Once you are near the temple courtyard, you have to visit the temple area barefoot or by wearing your socks on.
➖ Visit Aluviharaya Rock Cave Temple in Aluvihare. Also not frequently visited by tourists. It is on the way towards Nalanda Gedige.
Some more pictures:
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