Habalikhati: A Pristine Virgin Island

This write up describes my trip to Habilikhati Island in Gahirmatha Marine Wildlife Sanctuary and is the continuation of my Bhitarkanika Sanctuary trip blog (Link is given Bhitarkanika PART 1)

 

OVERVIEW:

Habalikhati Island falls under Gahirmatha Marine Wildlife Sanctuary. Whenever I visit Bhitarkanika, I spend at least two nights on this island. Habilikhati is one of the pristine, virgin and unexplored beaches of India. It is the only Marine sanctuary of Odisha and is a part of the world’s largest known rookery of Olive Ridley sea turtles (Rushikulya river mouth is another nesting site for these turtles in Odisha). The spectacular site of a mass congregation of these turtles for mating and nesting amazes both the researchers and the nature lovers alike. The Gahirmatha sanctuary stretches from the old lighthouse near Batighar to Maipura river mouth. These turtles travel all the way from South Pacific Ocean to breed on the coast of Gahirmatha. About half a million of these species visit Gahirmatha every year for mating. This phenomenon is often termed as 'Arridabas'.

(The first lighthouse in the Eastern coast of India was built in Batighar village in the year 1837)

(Maipura river mouth is at Ekakula tip, near Habalikhati).

 

MY JOURNEY:

(A story made from my 8 trips in this island between 2005 to 2022)

I started my journey towards Habalikhati from Dangmal Island which takes about 2 hours. The weather became cloudy and a light breeze was blowing. In a distance, I saw a crocodile and many birds sitting on its body, many varieties of birds on the banks searching for fish, deer grazing by the river and of course lots of crocodiles. The weather became cloudy again and there was a bit of drizzle which made the boat ride more pleasurable. The river was getting wider towards Habilikhati and the narrow mangrove creeks have long disappeared.

Storks standing on a crocodile

Deer grazing on the banks of the river

Habalikhati was now very near and I could see the tip of the island lined with coconut trees which was located just near the estuary of Brahmani river. The boat was now bouncing a lot due to bigger waves with a strong breeze which felt like a roller coaster ride. The Habalikhati jetty was still a bit far away, built near a creek at the bend of the river. Taking a boat ride across the river and gradually venturing into the wide sea is an experience ridden with sheer thrill and excitement. 

Suddenly, there was a thud and the boat came to a standstill. It has hit a mudflat and got stuck in the sand beneath. In the winter the rivers have less water and mudflats crop up; they can be navigated well and not much of a threat during high tide, but during low tide, it becomes very risky to identify the area it covers underwater. The boatman said until the high tide comes up again there is no way the boat will move. They can push the boat, but they won’t get down in the river as it's very risky due to fear of crocodiles. I was wondering how many hours I have to stay put on the boat. Finally, a member of my team gathered lots of courage and went down to the mudflat and pushed the boat free. You got to have a lot of guts doing such a feat, it was a brave thing to do, albeit very risky and dangerous. Getting freed from the mudflat we slowly floated towards Habalikhati jetty.

HABALIKHATI ISLAND:

The boat finally docks at Habalikhati jetty after a fascinating and adventurous journey. From the jetty, it’s a 2.7 km hike through a forest trail towards Habalikhati Nature Camp. The trail is a pleasant walk and you can spot fiddler crabs, horseshoe crabs, monkeys, deer and wild boar. The trail crosses some creeks and if you are lucky you might spot fishing cats and leopard cats here. 

Top - the old jetty.  Down - the present jetty.

The trail towards Habalikhati Nature Camp

A patrol boat in a creek while going towards Habali camp

After a leisurely hike, I reached Habilikhati Nature Camp. The location of this camp is just awesome, just a stone's throw away from the seashore. The mangroves are long gone and all you get to view is this pristine and virgin beach for miles totally devoid of people and secluded from civilization. 

Habalikhati beach

Habalikhati beach

Through the years, I have seen a lot of changes in this camp and I can recollect how it has developed, then again rebuilt since I first visited it. This island is ravaged by cyclones, storms and tidal waves almost every year and the camp at so close proximity to the beach makes it very dangerous. Many a time the cottages and tents are washed away, the trees lining the beach are uprooted and the sea creeps in closer and closer each year. There was a time when the sea was safe to bath, but now as the sea has advanced inland it’s very risky and dangerous. Sharp tree stumps jut out from the sand, the sand mixed with soil became looser and the undercurrents have become stronger. 

Habalikhati beach in 2005. The area with the trees are now 
swallowed by the sea

Back in 2005 when I first visited Bhitarkanika, Habalikhati was more raw and wild. The camp had only two cottages to stay, with only plain wooden beds, no electricity, no drinking water (there was a tube-well though, but the water was not drinkable), there were washrooms without doors and was best to defecate in the open as the area was devoid of any tourist or other people. By the way, I found a big snake in the washroom. The beach which was a 150 ft away from the cottages and was very safe to have a swim. There was a sole caretaker, who remained drunk most of the time was in charge after the cottages and he had to stay on this island for 6 months duration. Wonder what he used to do for so many days alone. The company I went with, carried all drinking water and food supplies, along with a guide and a cook. The area was very virgin back then and much wildlife could be seen both day and night. In the morning we spotted many types of snakes and even a big crocodile which came very close to the camp. Was lucky to spot some Olive Ridley sea turtles nesting around a few clicks away from the encampment. At night, packs of porcupines, wolves and hyenas used to roam outside the cottages and I could feel the movement. In all, it was an eerie atmosphere filled with a dose of adventure. 

The video below shows the beautiful Habalikhati Nature camp before it was destroyed by tidal waves and cyclones. 

Then in 2015, Habalikhati camp had a complete makeover with many more cottages & tents to stay, well-decorated causeway all around the camp, a dining area, running water, solar-powered electricity etc. The charm of the wild experience was no more there. In 2017, the kitchen was destroyed by rogue waves and in 2019 the camp was heavily ravaged by a super cyclone which totally destroyed the cottages, tents, the windmill and the double storied log cabin. 

The cottages destroyed by the cyclone

At present, the camp has been rebuilt with 4 new spacious cottages, a new dining area and another cottage under construction. The new cottages are just about 20 - 30 ft. away from the seashore and at high tide, seawater approaches very near to them. I wonder, how long these new buildings will stand at so close proximity to the sea.

The video below shows the present condition of Habalikhati Nature Camp and the newly built cottages and dining hut. 

EXPLORING THE ISLAND:

After lunch I went for a walk following the seashore towards the southern side of the island. It is always advisable to go for a walk down the shore during low tide. At high tide, the seawater advances closer to the forest and cuts off your walking path. The whole area had a desolate look and many trees lining the shore were knocked down by the powerful cyclone. Moving forward, I came across a sand dune where I found an empty Olive Ridley turtle nest and just a few feet away there were some turtle carcasses. It was nearly sunset and the water was rising, so I hastily tracked my way back to the camp. If you keep moving towards the south part of the island (8 km from Habali camp), you will come across a small fishing village called Satabhaya. It was once a big village which was utterly destroyed by a cyclone in 1999 and many lives perished, a large number of huts were washed away into the sea. The sea swallowed the village in whole. Now, only a handful of people stay in the village engaged mainly in fishing. There is also a 400-year-old temple in Satabhaya known as Panchubarahi temple which is now half-buried in sand and the rising sea pounds the temple often. The aggressive erosion is a threat to the temple, thus the 5 idols which weigh 1.5 tonnes each were taken to a new temple 12 km away from Satabhaya to Bagapatia, where many of the villagers of Satabhaya are now rehabilitated.  

A sand dune 

As darkness engulfed the island, I could hear the cries of wild animals especially the hyenas and wolves. Some of the members from my team took out high powered torches to locate the animals, and they were able to find their eyes glowing in the dark very near to our camp. Some were lucky to click some shots.

It was a full moon night, a campfire was lit and the whole area was looking prepossessing and alluring. The only sound we could hear was the waves breaking on the shores. A very surreal atmosphere. I retired to my room after having a sumptuous dinner.

Campfire on the beach

 

Next morning after breakfast, we went to explore the northern side of the island towards Ekakula which was a 7 km hike along the beach one way and should be done during the peak hours of low tide. Ekakula is located at the tip of Habilikhati island right on the estuary of Maipura river point. Back in 2005, I had the privilege of staying in Ekakula for a night, which was a very narrow stretch of land between two water bodies (just like an isthmus), namely the river estuary and the Bay of Bengal. This area attracts a large number of Olive Ridley turtles for nesting during the season because of its black sand. Unfortunately, the camp was heavily destroyed by the tropical cyclone 'Aila' in 2009 and in the following years, the forest department banned overnight stay in Ekakula altogether. 

The video below shows Ekakula Nature camp area. 

Walking along the beach, towards Ekakula you will spot varieties of marine wildlife and birds. Occasionally you can find Bottlenose dolphins jumping around the sea, water scorpions, hermit crabs, jellyfish, sea eagles and if lucky the Olive Ridley turtles. 

Some species at Habalikhati island

A dead Olive Ridley turtle

Bottlenose Dolphins on the move

A White Bellied sea eagle

Upon reaching Ekakula I found that the cottage where I once stayed still exists and the camp was managed by some people. I went towards Ekakula jetty, which was very creaky and requires regular upkeep, as strong winds blow at the mouth of the river which wrecks the jetty often. Different species of mudskippers are found near Ekakula jetty, predominantly the Great Blue Spotted mudskipper. The staff prepared tea for us and after a bit of rest at the camp, we were now set to head back towards Habilikhati camp. 

The video below shows the hike from Habalikhati camp towards Ekakula.

             

Ekakula camp from the beach

The turtles come to this beach for the black sands

On our way back we visited a very old shrine near the camp. It was inside the forest close to the seashore and people from the surrounding villages around Bhitarkanika often come here to offer prayers to the gods. 

The shrine inside the forest

Offering prayers to the gods

Reaching the camp I was dead tired and dozed off a bit but woke just before sunset. A walk on the beach as the day ends rejuvenates your soul and sunsets from Habalikhati are just breath-taking. 

Sunset walk at Habalikhati beach

Sharp tree stumps jut out from the beach

At night just after dinner, I spotted some porcupines behind the kitchen area. They come here often in search of food. I also spotted some hyenas roaming around the seashore but it was so dark that getting a shot of them with my little camera was hard. It was my last night in Habalikhati and was time to hit the bed along with the sound of the waves. 

A porcupine behind the kitchen

RETURNING BACK TO CHANDBALI:

Next day after breakfast, I bid adieu to Habalikhati and hiked back towards the jetty where our boat was docked and started the long journey back towards Chandbali town. The upstream journey takes about 4 to 5 hours depending on tides. Meandering down the rivers, the boat docked at Jayanagar jetty marking the end of my Bhitarkanika sojourn but just a few clicks away from the jetty I could see the giant croc ‘Kalia’ again, lying motionless on the muddy banks as if saying goodbye to me. 

Horseshoe crabs mating

Leaving Habalikhati

WHERE TO STAY: 🏨

Habalikhati Nature Camp at present has 4 double bed cottages & 5 double bed Tent Cottages. The tariff is Rs.4350 for the cottages and Rs.3800 for the Tent CottagesHabalikhati island accommodation Overview (the tariff includes all 3 meals). Extra adult heads need to pay Rs.1000 per head per day for lodging and all meals. 

The bed in the cottages can comfortably sleep, 3 adults. There are shortages of extra mattresses in the camp.  

You can book the Nature camp online from this link OFDC Habalikhati Nature Camp

You can watch this YouTube video of mine for information regarding the cottages and the present condition in Habalikhati Nature Camp. Habilikhati cottages and the area

OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION: ❓

➖ Electricity in the camp is available only after sunset from 5pm till midnight. 

➖ Nights in Habalikhati island are very cold and chilly from Dec to Feb.

➖ Chicken or any type of meat are strictly prohibited in the camp. 

➖ After sunset always carry a torch or other light source with you when you are outside the cottage.

➖ Never set out towards the beach after dark alone. 

➖ If you are travelling with a big group and carrying heavy luggage/trollies etc. then it might be tiresome to hike the 2.7km trail from the boat jetty till the camp. It's advisable to contact the site manager (9178112864) of the camp before reaching the island to send a pulley van to the jetty which will carry your luggage and also a person till the camp. (costs extra)

➖ Carry biscuits, snacks, light food, cigarettes, candle, matchbox, medicines, mosquito repellent, extra batteries for your camera's and other necessary items along with you. There are no shops around Habilikhati or once you depart from Khola checkpost. 

➖ Habilikhati remains closed every year from 1st May to 31st July for crocodile breeding and nesting and from Dec 20th to Jan 15th for Olive Ridley turtle nesting and census. 

Dear Reader's, hope you have loved reading about Habalikhati island and the many secrets it holds. Tell me about your views in the comments section.