Bastar (PART 1): It's all Water over the Falls

In this travel blog, I will be writing about my trip to the beautiful and bountiful Bastar district in the Indian state of Chhattisgarh. This blog is divided into three parts.

▶️ This write-up as PART 1 describes my first trip to Bastar, detailing Jagdalpur town, history and the various waterfalls found in the region.

▶️ PART 2 describes my second trip to Bastar and summarises the various tribes, tribal markets, Bison horn Maria tribe, Handicraft village and Sathdhara bridge. 

▶️ PART 3 describes the historical monuments in Barsoor, Danteshwari temple and camping at the other side of Chitrakote waterfall. 

(This write-up will be updated after more visits)

OVERVIEW:

The Bastar district has a reputation for being one of the most eco-friendly destinations in India. It is home to lush green forests, beautiful valleys and mountains, lively rivers, natural caves, captivating waterfalls, attractive lakes and a rich as well as diverse wildlife unique tribes. The fascinating and ancient architectural monuments of Bastar include many beautiful temples that never fail to mesmerize travellers. 

Bastar is one of the most interesting tourist locations in Chattisgarh and has been a tourist attraction for decades for its rich diversity of flora and fauna. Among the most popular locations are the Chitrakoot and Tirathgarh waterfalls, situated close to Jagdalpur. Bastar is also famous for its traditional and colourful Dussehra festival. Known as the land of tribes, about 70 per cent of the total population of Bastar comprises tribal groups, a varied number of tribal groups in the district ensures that many languages are spoken, mainly Gondi, Halbi, Chhattisgarhi and Hindi are the languages spoken and, more importantly, understood in this region. 

LOCATION: 

Bastar is located 264 km from Raipur (state capital of Chhatisgarh) and 85 km from Jeypore (Odisha). 

HISTORY: 

In the epic Ramayana, the area known as Bastar is mentioned as “Dandakaranya” and as a part of the ancient Kosala kingdom, it is also mentioned in the Mahabharata. It has also been said that around 450 AD, the Bastar area was ruled by a Nala king named Bhavadatta Varman, who is recorded as having invaded the neighbouring Vakataka kingdom during the reign of its king Narendrasena (440-460). 

Spanning 92000 sq. km of a breath-taking plateau from the Abujhmar Hills and the Eastern Ghats spanning across Chhattisgarh, Odisha, and Andhra Pradesh, the forest has been a mute witness to many scenes from Hindu scriptures and Mahabharata.

Bastar, now part of the state of Chhattisgarh, was a princely state in India during the British Raj. Said to have been found in the early 14th century by the brother of Prataparudra, the last ruler of the Kakatiya Dynasty, but strangely there does not seem to be much information about this. What we do know is that from the year 1324 till 1948, the royal state of Bastar was shown on the map of the Imperial Gazetteer. Jagdalpur was its capital and it has a very modern-looking blue and white flag, consisting of a Trishul and a narrow sliver of the moon.

The flag of Bastar. Image source: Indian Rajputs

Bastar Coat of Arms. Image source: Indian Rajputs

In the early 19th century, Bastar became part of the Central Provinces and Berar and on January 1, 1948, it acceded to the Union of India becoming part of India’s largest state, Madhya Pradesh, in 1956. Since 2000, is known as the Bastar district of Chhattisgarh state, with a “ceremonial ruler” H.H. Maharaja Kamal Chandra Bhanj Deo of Bastar, a descendent of the Bhanj Dynasty. 

MY TRIP TO BASTAR:

My first visit to Bastar was only for 3 days and I didn’t have the scope to properly explore the rich culture and history of the region. Just as a regular tourist I visited the waterfalls and ended my trip. Also, Bastar was not on my map and was just a sudden plan to visit this place from Arakku. The journey from Arakku to Jagdalpur in the heart of monsoons was arguably one of the finest train journeys I've experienced. A journey mixed with a kaleidoscope of colours, landscapes and earthly people. The train reached Jagdalpur (capital town of Bastar district) in the late afternoon and I went directly to my hotel.

Anthropological Museum - 

After refreshing a bit, I hurriedly went to visit the Anthropological Museum. The Zonal Anthropological Museum was established in Jagdalpur in 1972, to provide an insight into the culture and lifestyle of the Bastar tribes. The museum has a brilliant and well-curated collection of ethnic items that shed light on the life of the tribals. Artworks, sculptures, objects such as footwear, headgear, clothes, ornaments, weapons, wood carvings, masks, brass figurines etc. can be seen here. The museum is an excellent place to gain an understanding of the lifestyle of these tribes around Bastar.

Bastar Palace -

Gaining a bit of knowledge, I now went towards Bastar Palace. The descendants of the erstwhile royal family still dwell in the palace and only the Durbar room is open for tourists. The palace also has a temple of Danteshwari, the revered goddess worshipped all over Bastar. Most of the palace area is now converted into a medical college. 

Dalpat Sagar -

Next morning, I woke up a bit early and walked towards Dalpat Sagar which is the biggest artificial lake in Chhattisgarh built 400 years ago by Raja Dalpat Dev Kakatiya. Primarily it was used for rainwater harvesting but now used mainly for fishing and tourism-related activities such as boating and also for bird watching. I hired a boat and visited the old temple situated on an island in the middle of the lake. The temple known as Bhupaleswar Mahadev temple was built in 1842 by the then Bastar king Bhupal Dev. The temple is still in its archaic form and the tree standing on the island is home to hundreds of migratory birds during winters.

 

I trotted back to my hotel, had a belly full breakfast and then hired a car to visit the various waterfalls around Bastar. The waterfalls come alive in the monsoons and it is the best season to watch them in their beautiful rage.

Tirathgarh Waterfall -

I was on my way to Tirathgarh waterfall. The Tirathgarh waterfall is situated at a distance of 35 km road drive from Jagdalpur, in the south-west direction and lies in the Kanger Valley National Park. As you enter the park, the silent atmosphere and the roaring sound of the waterfall gives you immense satisfaction of nature. There are many shops near the park selling food and handicrafts.

The waterfall has an approximate height of 300 ft. This is a huge waterfall with milky white water. Water falls from a height of 91 meters on the river Mugabahar but its staircase-step, the structure makes it less violent and gives it an amazing look. The waterfall is named after a small village known as Tirathgarh which is situated towards the west of the waterfall.

Explore the rugged beauty of the lofty mountains romancing the shimmering waterfalls. You can go near the falls and can also have a bath and get drenched with the spray of the falls. If you are near the waterfalls which is a heavenly feeling, there is also a way to go till the top of the waterfall using the rocks as stair steps (very risky in monsoon season).

Tirathgarh waterfall

Chitradhara Waterfall - 

Now I was on my way towards another waterfall known as Chitradhara. It was 35 km away from Tirathgarh near a village known as Potnar. Potnar is a very remote village in Bastar and the waterfall looks magnificent in the stunning landscape. The waterfall is horseshoe-shaped, falling from a height of about 100 meters and mainly fed by the river Indravati. Chitra means a picture and Dhara defines it as the flow, thus the picture of the flow is an enthralling view. The water flows down the rocky hill and creates small pools at the bottom. As it’s located in a remote area, the waterfall remains less crowded and an amazing place to visit.

Chitradhara waterfall

Tamda Ghumar Waterfall - 

After spending about 20 min in the area, I am now heading towards another waterfall known as Tamda Ghumar. The road to the waterfall is through villages surrounded by farmland and a dirt road which becomes very muddy in the rainy season and is 34 km away from Chitradhara. Tamda Ghumar is a seasonal waterfall mainly fed by rainwater and is formed only during the rainy season. It falls from a height of about 100 meters and the area is surrounded by dense forest, valleys and hills. The whole area looks breathtakingly stunning from above. There is a trekking trail which takes people to the foot of the waterfall through the forests.

Tamda Ghumar waterfall

Mendri Ghumar Waterfall -

My next stop was Mendri Ghumar waterfall. Mendri Ghumar is very near to Tamda Ghumar and was just 2.5 km away. It is also a seasonal waterfall which is fed by rainwater and looks best only during the rainy season. Water falls from a height of about 70 meters and the area is surrounded by lush green dense forests on both its sides.

Mendri Ghumar

Back in Jagdalpur -

A day well spent and was now travelling back to Jagdalpur. I will be visiting the famous Chitrakote waterfall the next day. I was inquiring about stay options near Chitrakote and my hotel manager said that there are few options available and most are to be booked well in advance. There was also a guest house maintained by the PWD but rarely given to common citizens, he added, and most people were turned back by the officer in charge. Great! Then I would try to book a room in the PWD guest house for which I need to visit the Collectorate Office in Jagdalpur and write a letter to the Protocol officer for my willingness to stay in their property. If lucky they might grant my wish.

Getting permission for PWD Guest House -

The following day I set off for the Collectorate Office in an auto-rickshaw, which was just 2 km away from my hotel. After a frantic search for the right office, I finally was able to meet the officer. In our first conversation, he declined my stay consent, after which I pleaded to grant me a request. I told him that it was a kind of a dream for me to stay in front of Chitrakote waterfall and as I had an unplanned trip to Bastar, I failed to make any bookings beforehand. I waited in his office for nearly 2 hours and just out of curiosity and sheer luck he finally gave me permission to stay for a night in the PWD Guest House. I was so overjoyed that I gifted him a box of sweets.

Experience at Chitrkote PWD Guest House -

Getting the authorization letter I made my way to the Old Bus stand of Jagdalpur and boarded the bus which will take me to Chitrakote. There are only 3-4 buses in a day and journey time is nearly 2 hours (40km) as it will stop at all the village haats (markets) en route. Reached Chitrakote at 3 pm and made my way to the PWD guest house which was located just beside the magnificent and massive Chitrakote waterfalls. As I entered the guest house and showed my letter to the caretaker in charge, he reluctantly refused to let me stay and I wondered why on earth he was declining my stay when I had the green signal from the Collectorate. I couldn’t get in touch with the officer in Jagdalpur as my phone had no network. In the meantime, he called up the officer and told him that he has declined my stay because I have arrived on a bus!!!! I was utterly flabbergasted by his way of thinking and spoke with the officer too, where he apologised for the caretaker’s behaviour. Well, it’s saddening to find that this type of mentality still exists in our society and it’s a very uncomfortable thing to find such discrimination even today. Anyways, after a brief talk with the man in charge, I was shown to my room which was on the second floor. It was a suite room with a queen bed, a balcony and most importantly a big glass viewing screen overlooking the waterfall. The whole property is very well maintained from the outside with manicured lawns, sidewalks and fountains. The most troubling thing is that there was no provision to order food. It had a kitchen and dining hall which was covered with sheets of cloth. The shops catering to the tourists outside the guest house close after 6 pm and the only option was to walk 15 minutes towards Dandami Luxury Resort nearby to order food (should be done by 7 pm). So, if you are planning to stay in this PWD guest house then carry ample water bottles, if possible bring an electric kettle along with tea & coffee, snacks etc.

(details of PWD bungalow in 'Where to Stay' section)

PWD bungalow

Chitrakote waterfall from PWD bungalow

Chitrakote Waterfall -

Keeping behind my backpack in the room I went towards Chitrakote Waterfall. The sound of the water gushing from the falls was deafening as the monsoon is the best time to visit this gigantic waterfall. As the trajectory of a river Indravati ferociously gushes down the Vindhya mountain ranges, the brown water creates a mist that rises and clouds half the falls. The rest peacefully travels for kilometres into the river. So violent, yet so beautiful. Even the thunderous sound of the water has a calming effect, as it shuns every thought and hypnotises you to just be. Since I visited the waterfall during monsoon, it was in its full glory; the river touches both the banks and is filled with silt, making it look brown. It wears a different look for different seasons. In summer, the water carries no silt and looks thinner but taller. The waterfall changes colour because the catchment area of Indravati, where other rivers, rivulets and streams meet, carries different types of soil into the main river. It wears a different look for different seasons.

Chitrakote waterfall

Because of its shape, Chitrakote waterfall is also called the Niagara Falls of India. I haven’t seen the Niagara Falls but no waterfall has had such an impact on me. Moreover, I don’t like naming places/sights in India in comparison with other countries because I feel it loses its self-identity. The waterfall has a whopping height of 29 meters which is about 95 feet. The width of the fall is 300 meters, which is around 380 sq. ft., and forms a horseshoe shape. During monsoons, the stretch can be seen with an overflow of water whereas it is a little different during the off monsoon season. The waterfall has its own beauty in different seasons that can be cherished.

I found an old Shiva lingam in a small rock outcrop which looked like a cave. There was a narrow staircase which takes you to the bottom of the falls. The local tourist organisation organises regular boat rides, fishing and camping here (during monsoons the boat rides are stopped). When the water does drape the rocks completely, people also get a chance to see what is behind the falls. According to Ramayana, Ram spent his exile in Chitrakote (Dandkaranya). He meditated in the caves here, beside the waterfall. Pictures of deities, gods, goddesses and Navagrahs can be found here on the top right of the waterfalls. This waterfall deserves more than one visit.

 

I retired to my room for the night to have a good sleep with the sound of the raging waterfall accompanied by heavy rain. The following morning I had breakfast in a nearby shack near the waterfall. I took the bus leaving for Jagdalpur at 10 am and upon reaching the town went to the railway station to board my train back home, thus ending my short trip to Bastar. But this magical land has much more to offer than just waterfalls. I missed exploring the various tribes and the historical sights around Bastar for which I need to make another trip. In my view, to explore a destination extensively you need to visit at least 4 to 5 times.

(Read about my second visit Bastar: Through Uncharted Hinterlands)

WHEN TO VISIT: ☁️

➖ For viewing the waterfalls in their full power, the best season is between July and October. It rains heavily till September so be prepared for a downpour and muddy roads at certain places. 

➖ The caves at Kanger National Park remain closed during monsoon season. (July to September). 

➖ In the winter months the volume of water in the waterfalls greatly reduces. Boats can be hired in Chitrakote after September. 

➖ On the contrary every season has it's beauty but do avoid Summer months as it's scorching hot during this season. 

WHERE TO STAY: 🏨

Jagdalpur (links open in a new window)

➖ Hotel Akanksha

➖ Hotel Devansh Residency

➖ Naman Bastar Resort 

➖ Hotel Atithi (Phone: 077822 25275)

➖ Hotel Shradha Suman (Phone: 98302 38194)

➖ Hotel Parth Inn

Chitrakote Waterfall (links open in a new window)

➖ Dandami Luxury Resort

➖ Chitrakote Holiday Homes (Phone: 94061 18976)

➖ PWD Bungalow - The rooms are all very spacious with AC's, large glass viewing window and a big balcony. There are total 9 rooms and only 3 rooms are given to tourists (Rs.500 each room). The rooms are to be booked from the Collectorate office in Jagdalpur by the Protocol Officer in charge. (There are no phone numbers for booking in advance)

HOW TO REACH: 🛣️

 TRAINS🚂

➖ Howrah station to Jagdalpur at 18005 Samleshwari Express at 21:30 which takes around 25 hours to reach JDB station. This is the only train from Kolkata. 

(18006 JDB HWH Express at 4:15 am on return)

➖ Vishakapatnam to Jagdalpur at 58501 Kirandul Express at 6:50 am which takes around 10 hours to reach JDB station. 

(58502 KRDL VSKP Express at 10:00 am on return)

➖ Bhubaneswar to Jagdalpur at 18447 Hirakhand Express at 19:35 which takes 18 hours to reach JDB.

(18448 JDB BBS Express at 14:30 on return)

FLIGHTS ✈️

➖ Swami Vivekananda Airport in Raipur is 300 km away from Jagdalpur.

➖ The International Airport of Vishakapatnam is also 300 km away from Jagdalpur. 

VEHICLE HIRE IN JAGDALPUR 🚙 

Visiting the waterfalls they charge between Rs.3500 - 5000 depending upon the type of vehicle. 

➖ Tiwari Tours and Travels 

(Phone: 94060 02229)

➖ Dev Travels

(Phone: 91525 48157)

➖ Mr. Patnaik 

(Phone: 94791 08799)

RECOMMENDED SITE FOR IN-DEPTH INFO ON JAGDALPUR: 📝

Hamara Jagdalpur contains the titles facts and figures which reveal important information on the city and provides visitors with everything they need to know to travel, live, do business and take in a wide variety of cultural activities in Jagdalpur City.

Dear readers,

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