Bastar (PART 2): Through Uncharted Hinterlands
Bastar is a unique destination in its own way and has a lot more to offer than stunning waterfalls. In PART 1 of my travel blog I gave a comprehensive detail about the various waterfalls that can be found in and around the region. You can read it from this link Bastar (PART 1): It's all Water over the Falls.
In this write up as PART 2 of this series I will be discussing my second visit to Bastar which was a real eye opener. Here I will be writing about the tribes of Bastar and the weekly tribal markets in the region.
In PART 3 you can read about the temples in Barsoor, Dantewada, Bastar and camping on the non-touristy side of Chitrakote waterfall from this link Bastar (PART 3): Land of Architectural Wonders
SHEDDING THE MISCONCEPTION:
After my first visit to Bastar the previous year my soul was aching for a revisit, as I missed the real flavour of the region. While I was planning for one, my family members and friends said why I should be visiting this terrifying place again as it’s rather unsafe for tourists because of widespread Naxal violence. All I had to do was console them, and say that what they think and read in the newspapers and media had lead them to believe that the whole region is very volatile and dangerous to travel. Whenever there’s a report of aggression by the Naxalites, the media houses portray the whole district of Bastar in turmoil. But that is not true and it's time that they should change their perception.
The strife torn Bastar with abundant natural beauty has been out from tourist’s radar for over three decades but the battle of the Naxals is not with the general public or the tourists. They claim to have certain rights and rules and their struggle is with the state, security personnel and the government. Of late, this Naxalite / Maoist insurgency has reduced a lot and is only active in certain small pockets in south Bastar. Bastar is quite safe to travel to and explore unlike any other place in India and travelling in this region awaits a feast of experiences.
TRIBES OF BASTAR:
Bastar is the tribal heartland of India. The adivasis (tribals) of Bastar comprise the majority of the Gond in the north (including the subgroups Muria Gond and Maria Gond and Dhurwa in the south, plus other tribes like Halba and Bhatra). Tribal people are generally depreciated by the castes that settled in the region more recently. Sometimes perceived as dangerous, but more often depicted as innocent, they are as foreign and mysterious to the town dwellers as the very jungle in which they live. About 70% of the population in Bastar is tribal, which makes 30% of the total population of Chhattisgarh.
Each tribal group of this region has its own distinct culture and enjoys a unique traditional living style. The dialect of each of these tribes differs from the others as do their eating habits, costumes, traditions and customs. The tribal people have their own rules and regulations with women wearing attire which is very different and colourful and jewellery made of beads and metals.
Each tribe has their own dialect and differs from each other in the way they dress, their language, life style, celebration and ritual, etc. All of them worship Goddess Maa Danteswari, Mavali Mata, Bhima Dev, Bhairam Pattdev, Angdev, etc. Folk songs like Mariro, Sona, Dhankul, Chait Parab, Kotni and Jhaliana are very famous.
Festivals among the tribe are celebrated almost all throughout the year with superstitions being prevalent amongst them. However, the tribes are becoming economically weak due to deforestation as many of them are dependent on trees. A large number of tribes live among them and avoid mixing with local people and always trust each other. They live in complete harmony and worship the trees to protect the forest. Modern society has a lot to learn from them, especially the ways to conserve the environment.
From birth to death and in every step of life, dance is inseparable part of the tribes. Use of colourful costumes, ornaments and head gear are important characteristics of tribal dance.
MY SECOND TRIP: JOURNEY
I started my trip from Kolkata boarding the Howrah Jagdalpur Samleshwari Express. It’s a 25 hr journey and reaches Jagdalpur at 10:45 pm. Do note that if you are travelling on this train, be sure to carry your own food. Although the train has 42 stoppages en-route, availability of food at the stations is nearly nil.
Upon reaching Jagdalpur station I went directly to my hotel to retire for the night.
The following morning I was on the way to a small village called Nainaar to visit the Bison Horned Maria tribe and watch their famous dance.
BISON HORN MARIA TRIBE:
"Tribal" is an expression used in India to refer to people known in another place as "indigenous". British ethnographers termed tribals "animists". As per the National Census, they are categorized as "aboriginals" and scheduled according to the tribe. In Hindi, tribal is known as adivasi and is denoted as "ancient inhabitants".
Bison Horn Maria is one of the most well-known tribal groups in India. The headdress of the tribe is so unique that it is represented or portrayed in almost all brochures, blogs, articles and tourism logs around Chhattisgarh. They are mostly found in the Bastar region of Chhattisgarh, they are the chief sub - caste of an ethnic community called Gond. Spaced out from Jagdalpur area towards the south of river Indravati in Chhattisgarh, they mostly exist in the district of Garhichiroli in Maharashtra and in some parts of Madhya Pradesh.
The Dadamis are known as Bison Horn Marias due to their head dress that they use in their ceremonial performance. Dancing and singing form an intrinsic part of their lives. These tribes, named as Bison-Horn-Maria by Grigson (1949) were originally a group of Maria Gond tribe who got a separate identity as Dandami Maria. They practice a blend of Hindu and animistic beliefs (belief that non-human objects have spirits). They generally follow the basic Hindu customs and traditions and practice both slash and burn cultivation along with hunting and fishing.
NAINAAR VILLAGE:
Our destination, a Bison Horn Maria village, seemed elusive. On our way I crossed the large memory pillars – simple but emphatic memorials of important people from the tribe. They are called “Gudi” in the local language. Each one was painted in vivid colours depicting the life of the deceased with the apexes decorated with wooden fish, bird or crocodile to which cloth ribbons are tied to signify easy passing of the soul. Illustrations based on the lives of the dead can been seen on all sides. Men riding horses, ploughing fields, giving away gifts, distributing drinks are the favourite motifs employed. Fish, birds, domestic and wild animals occupy the spare space. Memorial pillars have the life stories of prominent tribals painted on them as dedication after death. The tradition is centuries old but the theme of the paintings has changed with the influence of the ages. They draw & try to portray how the person lived his life.
This one though is a new one shows that he once rode an elephant, rode a truck, used to dance, had three daughters etc..👇
The tribal villages in the Bastar region of southern Chhattisgarh are made up of small clusters of huts, sometimes as few as five or six. As I meandered through the narrow lanes between brown walls of village huts I was pointed out towards the architecture of the huts. The essential pigpen, the flat stones dug into the earth to make a boundary wall and immaculately clean sunny courtyards. In these tribal hinterlands, life is far from easy. Although shrouded in poverty, they live life to the hilt and love to celebrate every joyous occasion. Food, drink, music, dance, mirth and merriment add colour to their otherwise simple lives.
BISON HORN MARIA DANCE:
The tribal men and women began to wear their ionic traditional attire before the dance. The dance is performed by both men and women. While the men wear colourful heavy headgear adorned with peacock and jungle cock feathers, cowrie shells covering their faces and bison horns, the women adorn themselves with red dresses and silver ornaments.
The headman of the tribe stands in the center of the circle and beats his drum, while the women group with “jhumka lathis” (sticks with bells) and the other men with drums are part of the circle. The headdress is worn by the men according to their rank and age in the tribe. The younger men are not allowed to wear the headdress.
Drums are used as props by the men which are slung from the shoulders. These cylindrical drums are made of a hollow tree trunk three feet or more in length. The women use iron rods called “jhumka lathis”. While the drums beats, the dance is performed in easy steps and by moving about in circle synchronised with the sound of the jhumka lathis.
The video below shows Bison Horn Maria tribal dance
It was truly a wonderful experience to witness the colourful cultural side of Bastar.
TRIBAL MARKET TOKAPAL:
If you want to experience Bastar fully then you should visit the blindingly colourful tribal markets known as haats. These markets are held in different places each day - one day in a village; the next in the forest; another day in an open meadow - but each time it's the same; hundreds of people from many different villages and tribes, each specialising in a different craft or skill, converge in one spot to trade their wares.
It is also a place where people of neighbouring villages meet each other, exchange news, gossip and pass on invitations. Often a local festival is organised on the day of the haat and then it becomes an extended celebration.
Tokapal is a busy, vibrant market and is well worth exploring. It is 25 km from Jagdalpur and is set up only on Mondays. For a better understanding of the people in the market it is recommended to take a guide along with you. I was lucky that I had a very knowledgeable anthropologist along with me and he beautifully described the various tribes, information about the local food, customs, and uses of the wares they are selling or bartering.
I started to explore the market which had many makeshift shops selling a wide variety of things. The grounds were muddy with stretches of water accumulation due to heavy rains the previous day and I had to walk very carefully.
I saw some people selling dried mahua flowers which are eaten fresh, or dried then boiled to create steam, which is then fermented to produce an intoxicating liquor, the favourite drink of many adivasis (tribals).
A tribal woman in a stall was cooking Bhajiya (pakoda made with gram flour) and Bobo (lentil and rice fritter sweet in taste). Bastar’s food is probably the closest to the original stuff, first cultivated by man, as pesticides are rarely/never used here, especially in interior areas of the region.
Stalls on tribal handicrafts made from wood, iron and bell metal (a mix of bronze and brass). Bastar tribals were also among the earliest to develop their expertise in working with metals. These people craft beautiful statuettes of animals and tribal gods. You will also feel enthralled to see the deft craftsmanship of these tribals reflected in the oil lamps, figurines of carts and animals.
Apart from these there were many shops selling saris, clothes, vegetables and fruits. Women under the shade of a tree were busy selling alcoholic drinks like Salphi (prepared from the sap of salphi tree), Mahua and Landa (rice beer).
Another group of women were selling tamarind chutney and Bastar’s famed Chapura (red ant chutney). Will be describing Chapura later in the write-up.
At one end of the market men gathered to place bets on the game of cock fighting, which is a favourite pastime of Bastar tribals. This is known as Muga-Ladai in the local language (cock fight). Bastar is home to Aseel Cocks, noted for its pugnacity, high stamina, majestic gait and dogged fighting qualities.
The makeshift ring is surrounded by huge crowds standing in rows, as two roosters with sharpened two-inch-blades at their feet lunge at each other. The crowd places their bets quickly as fights don't last longer than five to 10 minutes. There's a 15 minute break between rounds, allowing the victor time to collect his winnings and the surviving rooster. As many as 40 to 50 bouts can take place from noon till dusk. As the fights rage on, locals and spectators imbibe mahua and salphi (locally brewed liquor).
My guide described how these tribals live with nature at their side. He gave me an example saying that the tribal houses have no window door/panes, so the people cut giant spider webs from the forest and stick it on their open windows to fend off insects and flies.
After spending quite some time in the market and enjoying the colourful sights and sounds, I was ready to leave. It was indeed a wonderful experience to visit such a tribal haat.
CHILKUTI:
I was on my way to a small village called Chilkuti (20 km from Jagdalpur) which was home to master bell-metal artisans. Here you can observe them at work and the process as to how the bell-metal handicrafts are made and also buy directly from them.
The area is home to the craft of casting bell metal due to the lost-wax process. The process involves making a mould with a thread drawn from bee wax, between two layers of clay. Molten metal is then poured into the mould and the wax drained out. The method, called Ghadawa or Dhokra, is used to make idols.
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| The workshop |
Visited a master craftsman who has been felicitated by the President of India twice for his unique work. Apart from the usual bell-metal figures, he has also created some figurines which were lost for generations and has a unique style in his artwork. He gladly showed me around his small workshop and the process of creating such masterpieces which has been handed down for generations.
The tribal art of Bastar, a dying art form, is slowly finding its way back to modern society and being resurrected by media, travellers and tourists who have rediscovered the hidden potential of these indigenous people. the true beauty of these ethnic art forms comes from the fact that they are made up of all naturally sourced materials found in this region. The ethnic tribes of Bastar are among the first people to have expertise in working with metal, along with various other kinds of handicrafts. The most common art forms found in this region are Terracotta works, Bell-metal crafts or Dhokra, Bamboo crafts, Iron craft, Cotton fabrics and Wood craft.
CHAPURA THE FAMOUS DISH OF BASTAR:
To me, this dish really emphasized the traditional practices of eating and living off the land, for I had witnessed the actual hunt. Deep into the wild jungles of Bastar, these sharp red ants are found in abundance. A group of boys had gone off in search of tall trees, either sal, mango, jackfruit or cashew, where red ants usually build their nests. I was told that the telltale signs to watch out for were leaves plastered together. They were much quicker to spot this formation than me and a sprightly boy darted up one tree and cut out a cluster of these nests.
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| Red ant nest |
Another boy picked them up and threw them into a cane basket containing tiny stones and shook it vigorously, ensuring that the ants were crushed to death. I realized that gathering ant nests was not as easy as it looked. Ant hunters often get bitten, but they seem to think it’s small price to pay for the tangy chutney. Ants are high in formic acid and this provides a distinct flavour to the chutney, which is also used as a souring agent in a wide range of dishes.
Then these ants along with their eggs are taken to the kitchen where they are crushed, grinded and mixed with fresh ginger, garlic and red chillies. That's all, you have Red Ant Chutney or Chapura which are served in small leaf bowls called "Chipdi" made out of leaves of Sal trees.
This chutney boasts many medicinal qualities. These ants and their eggs contain formic acid, which has many anti-bacterial properties that can help combat bacterial infections in our digestive system. The formic acid in the ants gives the chutney its characteristic hot and spicy flavour. This chutney is also known to have a decent amount of protein, calcium and zinc, which is good for the immune system.
It forms an indispensable part of all their grand feasts and is relished whole-heartedly by the tribe members.
I really liked the taste of this chutney and greedily asked for another bowl. If you are brave enough, do try out this unique food if you are travelling to Bastar.
SATH DHARA, BODHGHAT BRIDGE & ABHUJMAAD:
Before dusk settled in I travelled 10 km north of Barsoor, where the river Indravati divides into 7 parts known as Sath Dhara. Monsoon is the best time to view all the parts as the river is in its full glory. The landscape here is very alluring as it's surrounded by lush green hills and forests as far as your eyes can see.
To travel to this point you need to cross a heavily guarded and fortified army encampment and reach a lengthy crossover known as Bodhghat Bridge. Beyond the bridge lies Abhujmaad, a hilly forested area over 1500 square miles, home to the illusive Abhuj Maria tribe. "Abhuj" means ignorant or completely ignored and "Maad" means hill/valley. Abhuj Maria's live a life of isolation from the outside world in the dense and secluded enclaves of the forest. A sub tribe of the Gond, they are one of the few tribes that had managed to keep their quintessential culture alive. They are a very ferocious and barbaric tribe who believe in primitive customs and are hardly tempted by material pleasures of life. Entry beyond the bridge is strictly restricted.
Abhujmaad is also a Maoist stronghold and entering there means setting foot at the mouth of death. They oppose any kind of survey in the region also. No government could enter this region for hundreds of years. During the Mughal period, Akbar tried to survey the land here and failed. In 1909 British cartographers made a similar attempt, but they too did not succeed. The Chhattisgarh government also tried to send in teams to survey the land, but all of them returned in fear. No physical verification has been done till date and surveys were only conducted by remote sensing satellites. As it is an inaccessible area, it can rightfully be said that this region is still very mysterious and uncharted with verdant forests, lush hills, rivulets and deep valleys. A place still waiting to be charted.
INFORMATION ABOUT WEEKLY TRIBAL MARKETS (HAATS) AROUND BASTAR:
Distances are calculated from Jagdalpur town as base.
Monday:
➖ Tokapal Haat (25 km)
Wednesday:
➖ Darbha Haat (35 km)
Thursday:
➖ Bastar Haat (20 km)
Friday:
➖ Lohandiguda Haat, 1 km before Chitrakote waterfall (37 km)
➖ Nangur Haat (20 km)
➖ Nagarnar Haat (24 km)
Saturday:
➖ Kuknar Haat (70 km)
Sunday:
➖ Jagdalpur Haat (at Sanjay Market in Jagdalpur town. Opens in the evening)
➖ Pamela Market (12 km)
HANDICRAFT DESTINATIONS IN AND AROUND BASTAR:
All across the region, there are small clusters of homes engaged in various arts and crafts.
✳️ Kondagaon
The NGO Saathi plays a key role in promoting the traditional crafts of Bastar. Visit their showroom for a variety of handicrafts. Kondagaon is particularly famous for bell metal; don’t miss Jaidev Bhagel’s workshop. There are also craft villages nearby that specialise in woodwork, wrought iron, terracotta and more.
✳️ Narayanpur
This Muria stronghold is best known for terracotta and woodwork. Find a good selection at the Shilpagram Sevagram, or head out to one of the nearby craft workshops.
✳️ Shilpagram, Parchanpal
A crafts village designed to showcase the creativity of Bastar’s adivasis. Here you can witness artisans deftly transform wood, wrought iron, sisal, terracotta, tumba and bell metal.
✳️ Jagdalpur & around
With several shops selling quality handicrafts, the Bastar headquarters is a great place to pick up souvenirs. The government-run emporium Shabari is a convenient one-stop-shop, but the Wood Market and Kosa Silk Centre provide a more specialised shopping experience. If you’re in town don’t miss a day trip to one of the several craft villages near town.
BASTAR DUSSHERA:
The festival am yet to witness.
The famous Bastar Dusshera, a 75-day unique festival is held in Jagdalpur, the capital of Bastar district. The festival, celebrated with all its pomp and show, cuts across castes and creeds, creating bonhomie between people from various castes and tribes in the region.
It was under King Dalpat Dev in 17th century that Dussehra started being celebrated in Jagdalpur and was since known as Jagdalpur Dussehra. The king encouraged the participation of the local tribals and other communities and gave them different roles in the celebrations, making it one of the most pervasive festivals of the region. This is celebrated as a commemoration to Goddess Danteshwari and other indigenous Gods and Goddesses of the tribals. The chariots became a significant part of the festival, and remain till date.
Bastar Dussehra reaches a crescendo in the last 10 days of the 75-day festival. The festival starts in July and ends only in October, with significant festivities and rituals scattered over these months.
Jagdalpur Dussehra's last ten days have been the most significant and awe-inspiring. The air is effervescent with celebrations as the chariot starts getting made; the tribals descend on the town of Jagdalpur; and the Danteshwari temple in Dantewada starts prepping for the long queue of devotees. Jagdalpur has become the focus of much celebration, as tribal communities march in from far-flung areas and base themselves in temporary camps. Their art and handicrafts like stone sculptures, shell work, dhokra artefacts, wrought iron curios and many more line the main street in front of the white and blue Bastar palace. The town is abuzz with impromptu songs and general cheer. ‘Mahua’ and ‘salphi,’ the local brews are brought out in copious amounts as the joyful tribals look forward to paying homage to Goddess Danteshwari and seeing the grand spectacle of the chariot being pulled around the town. (Source: Lonely Planet India)
CONCLUSION:
In my view, Bastar is a nature lover's paradise. It provides a glimpse of India's cultural potpourri and of the prevailing lifestyle. The tribes in and around Bastar are mostly primitive races who faithfully follow all traditional customs and their archetypal age old ritual. It's a mysterious land with varied landscapes and a stunning natural biosphere where much remains to be discovered and explored.
A region which is often overlooked by travellers and I would highly recommend you to travel and explore Bastar through uncharted hinterlands.
WHERE TO STAY:
➖ Read my blog BASTAR (PART 1) for detailed information about accommodation and vehicle hire.
➖There are some tribal homestays in Nangur, Dantewada, Barsoor, Phoolpad, Palnar. These homestays are very basic and tucked away in villages with natural surroundings. Usually they can accommodate a maximum of 6 to 8 people.
HOW TO PLAN OR REACH THE PLACES:
➖ You can always plan on your own by availing public transport like bus/shared cab or by hiring a vehicle. It is recommended to take a guide along with you for your better understanding and also as a translator. You can contact Chhattisgarh Tourism for a well knowledgeable and registered guide.
➖ If you are travelling alone, always return to your base before sunset. The villages, roads, outskirts of towns are not safe to travel after daylight.
➖ Get in touch with Unexplored Bastar for tours and treks in the region, customised trips, camping and tribal homestays.
Dear esteemed readers,
Hope you liked reading this comprehensive blog about tribal Bastar.
How did you like it? Did I miss anything or do I need a change? Kindly share your views in the comments section.
Superb post.
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