Bastar (PART 3): Land of Architectural Wonders

The Bastar district of Chhattisgarh has so much to offer to tourists and intrepid travellers alike. Waterfalls, scenic landscapes, the various tribes, unique customs, festivals, dances and a rich history along with artistically beautiful architectural monuments. There is so much to explore all around and yet it is relatively removed from India’s conventional tourist circuit. Most people say it’s unsafe but it’s just the opposite. It is very safe to travel to this part of the state and you will be mystified once you start touring around.

This is the last part in my three part series of Bastar. In this blog I will be writing about the temples of Barsoor, Danteshwari temple and my experience of camping in the non-touristy side of Chitrakote waterfall.

▶️ PART 2 of Bastar details about the Tribes of Bastar (read from this link Bastar: Through Uncharted Hinterlands).

▶️ PART 1 of Bastar details the various waterfalls around Bastar (read from this link Bastar Waterfalls PART 1).

 

JOURNEY CONTINUES

 

TOWARDS DANTEWADA:

I was on my way towards Danteshwari temple. From Jagdalpur to Dantewada, the road meanders through dense Sal forests. Often wild fruit bearing trees and medicinal plants appear. Bastar is indeed one of India's greenest terrains, or apparently the entire Chhattisgarh is so. Posts of the Central Reserve Police Force are visible within short distances of each other. Armoured units everywhere which triggered the notion that I was in some war zone. People generally refuse to go to these places after daylight.

Dantewada district is also known as Dakshin Bastar district. People often ask why you are travelling to this district as this place is revered as the Naxalite/Maoist den of Chhattisgarh and often there are incidents of clashes between the security forces and naxalites. But let me tell you, dear reader, that this is another misconception and it is more hyped by the media houses. It’s a very big district and these so called clashes are happening only at certain remote places in the region and as of now it has dwindled a lot. So, whenever there is such news the whole district comes into light and people get to think it’s not safe to venture into these lands. If there is any problem in the region the security forces will stop you from entering beforehand but for the most part Dantewada is very safe to travel.

DANTESWARI TEMPLE IN DANTEWADA:

Danteshwari Temple is devoted to Goddess Danteshwari. The temple is among one of 52 Shakti Peethas, shrines of Shakti, spread across India. The temple stands in Dantewada, a town of Chattisgarh. The town of Dantewada is named after the Danteshwari goddess who is the presiding deity of the Kakatiya rulers. Traditionally she is the family goddess of Bastar state. Six-hundred-year-old Danteshwari temple is considered as one of the ancient heritage sites. The temple stands at the place where the Daanth or Tooth of Sati fell. The vast temple complex today has been a revered structure for centuries of history and tradition. Due to its beautiful architectural, sculptural enrichment and lustrous festival traditions, Danteshwari temple is the most important spiritual center for the locals of this region.

Danteswari Temple

Danteswari entrance gateway 

The Danteshwari temple was built by the Chalukya kings in the 14th Century. The temple design resembles the South Indian style architecture. The idol of Danteshwari is chiselled out of black stone which is brought from Bursar. The temple is mainly comprised of four portions which include Garbha Griha, Maha Mandap (large sanctum), Mukhya Mandap (main sanctum) and Sabha Mandap (prayer hall). A Garuda Pillar stands in front of the temple entrance. The temple has a spacious courtyard and is surrounded by huge walls. The temple tower is adorned with sculptural finery. Goddess Danteshwari was previously known as Goddess Manikeshwari by the Nagas, who ruled from 760 to 1324 A.D. The temple was reconstructed before 1947.

Danteswari Temple side view

Dankini river

BARSOOR:

Next day I had plans to visit the historical sites around Bastar and Dantewada districts. Barsoor in Dantewada district was once the capital of Nagavansh Raja Banasur and is a fond destination for travellers who love history and ancient sculptures. This tiny town is filled with archaeological treasures. During the reign of King Dalpat Deo (1731 – 1774) the capital was shifted from Barsoor to Jagdalpur. Barsur is located on the banks of the Indrawati River, about 80 km from Jagdalpur. It is said that there were once 147 temples and an equal number of ponds here. Temples date back to 10^th and 11^th centuries and few of them still stand and most couldn’t stand the test of time. Will be discussing some of the temples that I visited.

 

TEMPLES OF BARSUR or BARSOOR:

Battisha Temple –

Battisha Temple was constructed sometime around 11^th century. Battisa, literally means 32, is a famous temple in Barsoor. It is famous for its 32 pillars (stambhs), having 4 rows and eight columns, which are spectacular to see because of its symmetry all around in every pillar. It is uncommon to have two sanctums (garbh-grihas) in Hindu temples, whereas, there are two garbh-grihas in Battisa temple for Lord Shiva with the presence of two individual big shivlingas, one in each garbh-griha.

Battisha Temple

Battisha temple Garbha Griha's

Nandi the bull inside the temple

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This place of worship shows an example of a temple construction over a stage formation. The Shiva lingam is made of stone, and it rests on a large mechanical system. As the water mill rotated, due to the falling of water, so did this shivling. And all this was made of stone. That is, it was rotating for several hundreds of years. People often try to rotate the Shiva lingam in order to know the mechanism behind it, but this advanced engineering of the tribal kings and architects is beyond our imagination.

Battisha temple front view

If anyone wants to travel to Chhattisgarh, then this temple is a must visit.

Mama Bhanjaa Temple –

Mama Bhanjaa temple is a 50 foot high temple and of archaeological importance in Barsoor. The temple was built during the Gangavanshi Kings around 11^th century. His nephew was a great lover of arts and architecture and hence it is believed that the temple has been constructed by the Bhanja with perfection in the architecture with his expertise. Out of jealousy the King wanted his name to be associated with the temple. Not agreeable with the King, the Bhanjaa killed the King and out of guilt placed an image of the King at the temple. After the natural death of the Bhanjaa, his image was also installed at the temple.

Mama Bhanjaa temple

Another story goes that in order to punish the sculptors Mama and Bhanjaa, the king ordered them to complete the construction of the temple in one day; in case of failure to do so, one of them would have to kill the other. However, the sculptors managed to successfully build the temple in one day. 

Hence the temple is named Mama Bhanja Temple due to the installation of two images of both the King and his nephew.

Mama Bhanjaa temple main sanctum

Twin Ganesha Temple –

Not very far from Mama-Bhanja temple lies Ganesh temple which has two large sandstone statues of Lord Ganesh. One is 7.5 feet and the other is 5.5 feet. It is the 3^rd largest Ganesh statue in the world with a Shiv Lingam which was found during the excavation process. 

Twin Ganesha idols

Shiva Lingam

Besides these statues, nothing much has survived. The temple complex is filled with rubble of stones and a couple of plinths. As stated earlier, temples of Barsoor are no archaeological wonders but Barsoor is worth a visit to experience the village life of Bastar region and for its splendid green countryside.

Ruins of a temple

Chandradritya Temple –

The temple is situated on the bank of the Chanradityesvara Lake with low rising hills nearby. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and believed to be built by Chandraditya, a feudal chief (Mahamandalesvara) under a Chhindaka Nagavamshi King Jagdeb Bhusan, as evident from a Telugu inscription of Samvat 983 (1061 AD) found at Barsoor. He excavated the tank and built a Shiva temple. 

Chandraditya Temple back view

Chandraditya Temple

The plan of the Garbhagriha is like 5 chariots and is attached with a square pillared mandap in front. The Pancharaths are like 5 senses of a human being and one has to conquer the same. The exterior walls contain images of Brahma, incarnations of Vishnu, Prajapati Dakshya and Uma Maheswar, but there are also a few worth mentioning erotic couples carved with excellence. The temple seems to have been constructed during the 11th century AD in Bhumij style of architecture. 

Chandraditya Temple inner hall

Nagphani Temple -

The temple is an example of mixed style architecture in Central India. It is 7 km on the Barsoor-Geedam road. In ancient times it was believed that a couple might not have a child due to the ‘Sharpa Dosh’. The couple has to install the statue of snakes in a temple and beneath a pipal tree after which the couple might be blessed with a child. There are two statues of Nagin (snake) to the left and right side in the main sanctum of the temple. Each one is 1.5 to 3 feet in height.

 

Narayanpal Temple –

Narayanpal Temple is just 25 km away from Jagdalpur in Bastar District and the architectural style is quite appealing. Shortly before Chitrakote falls, a bridge was built over Indravati to reach Bhanpuri. As soon as you cross the bridge, this temple is seen from the road itself. The 70 feet high Vishnu Temple, built out of red sandstone, was constructed near the confluence of the rivers Indravati and Narangi and dates back to the 11th century. Nearby, a small village was named Narayanpur after the establishment of temple, meanwhile, it came to be known as Narayanpal.

Narayanpal Temple

Contemporary to the Khajuraho Temple of India, Narayanpal temple is the only temple in the whole Bastar district where the idol of Lord Vishnu is ingrained. Built by Mumundadevi, the queen of the Chindak dynasty, the temple is a testimony to the Nagara architectural art of Bastar.

Narayanpal temple inner sanctum

I had very little time to explore the temple as it was raining very heavily. 

There are many old temples in Bastar awaiting renovation and most are in ruins. It will take countless years to restore all the destroyed temples in the region. But if you are travelling to Bastar, I would highly recommend you to visit Barsoor.

 

CAMPING NEAR CHITRAKOTE WATERFALL:

The last time I visited Chitrakote, I stayed in the PWD Bungalow beside the waterfalls.

But this year’s visit was more exciting as I will be camping beside the waterfall on the opposite bank of Chitrakote. This “Tiratha side” as it is known is devoid of tourists and looks more natural with ample green surroundings. The monsoon season made it more attractive. From Narayanpal its only 6 km towards Chitrakote Adventure Camp. Due to excessive rainfall some parts of the roads were flooded and I had to walk about 700 m from the road head towards the camping area. 

Pathway towards Chitrakote Adventure camp

The camp is managed by local tribals employed by tour company Unexplored Bastar. There is a watchtower type of building with three rooms and a kitchen and tents are pitched just in front of it. As I had a big group with me with a mix of travellers of all ages, I had to take two rooms and some tents were pitched outside. Diesel generators are used to provide electricity for the night and the food served is organic and pure tribal cuisine.

Camping near the falls

The touristy side of Chitrakote from the Tiratha side

There is a stairway which leads near the foot of the waterfall and one should walk down very cautiously as intermittent rains make it very slippery. The sight of the raging waterfall from the foot is a sight to behold. Chitrakote is the broadest waterfall in India and the best time to view its full power is only during the monsoon season.

Near the foot of the waterfall

From the roof of the building one can just sit and gaze at the beautiful surroundings and the mighty waterfall for hours.

the roof of the building

At night the management team served us with their local food for dinner which comprised of the famed Red Ant Chutney (chapura), Mushroom Shoots, Dal vada, Bamboo shoot curry, Tamarind chutney, rice and locally produced mixed vegetables. Each one of them was served in a small handmade leaf bowl.

Later, after dinner, they made a campfire to keep everyone entertained with stories, local songs and merriment. In all it was a day well spent and I retired to my tent to recharge my bodily batteries.

Campfire at camping ground

Next day morning it was still raining but the rain and the dark clouds along with the raging waterfall in front was looking more attractive. 

I would like to thank Unexplored Bastar for letting me experience the real flavour of Bastar.

HOW TO REACH DANTEWADA:

Dantewada is 82 km from Jagdalpur and is well connected to Raipur and many other places in Chattisgarh, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, including Hyderabad. South Eastern Railway runs trains between Visakhapatnam and Bailadila, passing through Dantewada.

HOW TO REACH BARSOOR:

There are no direct buses to Barsoor from Jagdalpur. One can catch any bus going towards Dantewada or Bijapur and get down at Geedam. From Geedam, one can board a bus or share jeeps (50 INR per person) to Barsoor. Barsoor is a remote village so try to return back before 3:00 PM else you might not get any transport to Jagdalpur and there is no accommodation option in Barsoor.

For accommodation details in Jagdalpur and vehicle hire kindly go through my blog Bastar: It's all Water over the Falls (PART 1)